Visiting Laos: It hasn’t had one Covid death and has an uplifting ancient capital


Shopkeeper Kalina has just brewed tea and delivers me a cup. I have stopped to obtain water from her village retail outlet in Ban Chan, close to Luang Prabang in northern Laos.

It is her dwelling, also, built at ‘pig height’ off the ground to prevent the animals wandering in, and is also reassuringly surrounded by a border of lemongrass to ward off snakes.

We sit with each other on a straw mat whilst I display her photos of my sons. She can’t get over the fact that I have 3, the identical as her. ‘Sahm’ (three), she claims, holding up three fingers and laughing.

Sacred site: The Wat Naxao Sukharam temple in Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage site

Sacred web-site: The Wat Naxao Sukharam temple in Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage web site

As soon as the royal capital and now a UNESCO Entire world Heritage web-site, Luang Prabang is at the confluence of the Nam Khan and Mekong rivers. It is what a lot of of us who backpacked in Asia in the Eighties even now dream of — unspoiled, with small resorts set in lush gardens, dining establishments lit by lanterns and a heat welcome. The Buddhist belief in karma retains Laos practically criminal offense-no cost.

The Mekong is like Willy Wonka’s chocolate river on a substantially grander scale, and gets its colour from the muddy-silt banking institutions.

Captains of longtail boats tout gently for business enterprise on the riverbanks below the aged town, wherever I safe my passage upriver to the Bak Pau caves. Just past the city we pass fishermen casting broad nets for bass.

Monks, who are constructing a new pontoon, have stopped for a tea split, placing into follow the Lao belief that way too a great deal operate is undesirable for you. ‘There’s a expressing that the Vietnamese plant rice and the Lao look at it improve. It doesn’t signify we’re lazy. It signifies that we know how to be even now,’ describes Kharta, a community tutorial.

At the pottery-developing village of Ban Chan, rows of UNESCO-commissioned lanterns are ready to be fired in kilns dug deep into the floor. The adult men who rise early to function as potters are now out tending to the rice fields, so it is just the gals who are left to churn the clay from purely natural pits, even though their youthful kids perform at creating temples with the sticky mud.

At the spooky, spider-riddled Bak Pau caves, I scrabble up slippery moss-lined stone ways to the dingy residence of 1000’s of Buddha effigies, the oldest of which dates from the 14th century and has its own particular guard. Sofitel Luang Prabang is a boutique lodge in a restored colonial mansion with a handful of great quirks.

Holy man: The Buddhist belief in karma keeps Laos virtually crime-free. Pictured are monks in a monastery

Holy person: The Buddhist belief in karma keeps Laos pretty much crime-cost-free. Pictured are monks in a monastery 

Two resident rabbits have the operate of the luscious gardens filled with palms, tamarind trees and a rice paddy where by at evening you can listen to the soft, rhythmic croak of the Asian common toad.

My suite has an outside bathroom and from my tub I look at snails traverse the backyard partitions, their speed suiting the hotel’s relaxed ambiance properly. It is just 5 minutes by tuk-tuk into the old city but it is nicer to take a look at by bicycle, which the Sofitel presents no cost.

As opposed to in lots of Asian towns, site visitors is gentle and I cycle in a loop that will take in the two banks of the Mekong and Nam Khan, halting for river sights and a caffeine hit at Saffron, which supports coffee-rising hill tribes.

The Kuang Si waterfalls are picture-perfect, with frothy water cascading from a height of 60 metres into blue-green pools

The Kuang Si waterfalls are photo-great, with frothy water cascading from a peak of 60 metres into blue-inexperienced swimming pools

Journey FACTS 

Double rooms at Sofitel Luang Prabang from £74 ( Thai Airways + Bangkok Airways from London Heathrow to Luang Prabang, by using Bangkok from £520 (


To get a 360-diploma view of the city, I climb 329 methods to the summit of Mount Phu Si, earlier golden Buddhas, to wherever a gilded stupa crowns the hill. At the foot of the jap slope is the Royal Palace, dwelling to the Lao monarchy from 1904 right up until 1975.

There is a pale elegance to the mosaic of emerald palms and lapis lazuli elephants in the throne area, but in common the palace has a melancholic air, as if in mourning for its ousted family members.

Arrive dusk, the dining establishments and bars on Sisavangvong Highway twinkle with candlelight, and holidaymakers search the boutiques promoting silks and pottery.

Tangor, with its tangerine mural of Indochina, and previous French movie posters, is owned by a Lao-French pair and the food stuff displays this. Duck panang curry, adopted by tarte tatin and a cocktail known as Organic Remedy of Uncle Ho (built with rice Lao whisky and banana liqueur) would make up my unusual but delightful supper.

Later on, I wander by means of the night time market to barter more than embroidered purses and slippers, and to take a look at a food items sector that caters to a assortment of culinary preferences from roasted pig’s heads to beautiful patisserie (a legacy of French colonial rule) to the preferred snack of barbecued crickets. ‘Pull wings off,’ is the suggestions I overhear. The simply call to alms is a every day 6am ritual, when locals location sticky rice into the monks’ bowls.

In a torrential downpour, I view at a respectful distance as the monks pad barefoot as a result of the town, their orange robes reflected in the puddles, their umbrellas held elegantly aloft.

In the courtyard of the city’s oldest monastery, Wat Xieng Thong, I hear to a beginner being tutored in verse by an more mature teenage monk.

It’s a 40-minute tuk-tuk to the Kuang Si waterfalls, bouncing in excess of picket bridges and as a result of farmland of fluorescent eco-friendly rice paddies, exactly where buffalo wallow in mud-slicks and youngsters crouch to fish by river tributaries.

The three-tier falls are picture-fantastic, with frothy h2o cascading from a top of 60 metres into blue-green pools. Nestling in the forest is a sanctuary for 20 Asian black moon bears, rescued from the illegal wildlife trade.

Swinging in hammocks, they could not glimpse far more content material. Lao folks joke that the abbreviation PDR, for the Lao People’s Democratic Republic, stands for ‘Please Really don’t Rush’ — and in a state where by currently being even now is viewed as a virtue, the moon bears are masters.


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